Tamahunga: Treasure of the north

First written in May 2015.

Mehemea ka tuohu ahau me maunga teitei.
If I should bow my head, let it be to a high mountain.

Mt Tamahunga is the tallest peak in the Matakana region – despite rising only 437m above sea level, it looms large and aloof above the surrounding landscape, a mysterious green hulk set back from the main road. I have a strong, sentimental connection to this region of New Zealand, having spent every summer here. I feel a deep reverence for the synergistic combination of ocean, rolling coastline and lush green bush; the tui, kereru and piwakawaka as well as the sea creatures and ocean-faring birds. If my soul has a home, this is where it lives.

This region is steeped with Māori history, and Tamahunga is no exception. The trail is named “Te Hikoi o Te Kiri” (“the walk of Te Kiri”) after a formidable Ngātiwai chief. In 1864, Te Kiri rescued around 180 Waikato prisoners held on nearby Kawau Island, and led them to the safety of his pā near the Tamahunga peak.

The walk up Tamahunga from Omaha Valley is short distance-wise but also steep, strenuous and often boggy. Through a couple of paddocks you emerge into bush teeming with ferns, vines, creepers, nikau palms, ponga and towering trees; a cool melting pot of greens and browns, flashes of silver and filtered light, with textures ranging from smooth and waxy to crinkled and rough. It is an earthy feast for the senses. If you walk up earlier in the morning or later in the evening, you may be greeted by tui, pīwakawaka (fantails) and miromiro (tomtits). The trail up is snaked with knobbled roots and embedded with moss-embroidered rocks.

The summit offers a grassy clearing and old wooden helicopter pad, but little in the way of sweeping views due to the thick bush (although I’m told if you continue beyond the summit to the north, there’s some stunning vistas – next time hey!). There’s a glimpse, if you’re sufficiently tall, down to the thin white strip of Omaha, a beach of classic beauty with sapphire waters and tussocked dunes that has unfortunately been victim of a subdivision development. It’s now host to the overt materialism of NZ’s extremely wealthy (including the PM, John Key). Beyond Omaha, the Tāwharanui Peninsula is visible, with its stretch of golden sand and patchworks of farmland and forest. Further still, the bush-clad hump of Kawau Island rises out of the of the ocean.

The track continues on to Pakiri Beach, or you can veer down to the Matakana Valley or simply return the way you came. The Tamahunga Trail is part of Te Araroa (“the long pathway”) which stretches 3000km from Cape Reinga to Bluff.